Archive for the ‘Chickens’ Category

Mixed Flock Guide: Can Chickens and Ducks Live Together?

Thursday, February 20th, 2025

Chickens and DucksMixed Flock Guide: Can Chickens and Ducks Live Together? Have you ever been tempted at the farm store, looking for chicks, only to see adorable ducklings and wonder, “Can I raise chickens and ducks together?” The answer is a resounding YES! Ducks and chickens can coexist harmoniously, if their basic needs are met with the right feed, water, and conditions. Let’s discuss how to make this happen and what you need to know for a successful mixed flock.

How Is It Different When Raising Chickens and Ducks Together?

Raising chickens and ducks together is a rewarding experience, but there are a few key differences to be aware of. One of the main differences is their growth rate. Ducks grow much faster than chicks, so you need a larger brooder to accommodate their size as they develop. Ducks also require more niacin, a nutrient essential for their rapid growth, which means you’ll need to ensure your feed contains enough niacin to support both species.

Another difference is their water habits. Ducks love water and will make a mess of their brooder by splashing and spilling, so you’ll need to clean and refresh their water more frequently to keep their living space dry and hygienic. Additionally, ducks are more likely to nest and lay eggs on the ground, while chickens prefer elevated nesting boxes.
Despite these differences, the basic needs for brooding–temperature, feed, and water–are similar enough that chickens and ducks can be raised together successfully from the start. Understanding and adjusting to their specific needs will help your mixed flock thrive.

What To Expect When Raising Baby Ducks and Chicks Together

Ducks and chickens can be kept in the same brooder and chicken coop. As mentioned above, expect your ducks to grow faster than your chicks. This is okay. They can still be kept together, but your ducks may be ready to move to the coop sooner than the chicks. The difference in growth may also require a larger brooder with more temperature zones–larger ducks can move to the cooler zones while smaller chicks can still get to the warmer zones. You will also need to be diligent in cleaning and refreshing the water in your brooder. Ducks LOVE water, and they spill and make a mess any chance they get!

What To Expect When Raising Adult Ducks and Chickens Together

Once the ducks and chickens are adults, they can absolutely be kept in the same coop, if that is what you want. Ducks and chickens can all free-range during the day and return to the same coop at night. Generally, ducks will stay together as one flock when exploring, while chickens are much more independent. They may venture out in small groups, but they usually explore individually. Your ducks will also nest and lay on the floor of your coop. Don’t be surprised if that also influences some of your hens to lie on the ground! It’s common to find brown or green chicken eggs in the same nest as white duck eggs. If you’re raising birds for egg production, provide a single high-quality complete layer feed for everyone. That makes feeding easy and keeps the egg quality great.

Feeding Chicken and Ducks Together

Baby ducks grow extremely fast and require 60 more kilocalories in each pound of feed than slower-growing baby chicks. Baby ducks do not convert their nutrients to niacin well, so they require extra niacin during rapid growth. With all these differences, how can a poultry owner balance the nutrient needs of their mixed flock while still keeping their feed manageable?
The magic lies within a really great flock feed. When we formulate mixed flock feeds, we focus on the essential nutrients for each poultry species we want to feed. Then, we balance those nutrients against the needs of the other birds. There is definitely some compromise, but in the end, we have a well-balanced feed that will work for many scenarios and different poultry types.

Chicken and duck mixed flocks are probably the most popular in many of our backyard flocks. As discussed in previous articles and above, baby ducks grow faster than baby chicks. They also have some unique nutritional requirements. Niacin is a B vitamin (B3), and most B vitamins are used to help convert food into energy.

Ducklings usually require about 20-60% more niacin than baby chicks, and that is because ducks grow extremely fast, and they are not very good at converting their other nutrients to niacin. Ducks deficient in niacin may develop leg deformities that can affect how they walk. Because of these unique requirements, you want to choose a high-quality flock feed that specifically mentions ducks as one of the species in the purpose statement or the feeding directions. This ensures that the unique nutrient requirements of ducks were considered when the feed was formulated. You can choose to feed Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer, which has a broader nutrient profile for all types of poultry. Or, if your ducks are layers, you can choose from any of our complete layer feed options.

Medicated Precautions

It is important to note that medicated chick feeds are NOT labeled for ducks. If you choose to raise baby ducks and baby chicks together, you should select a non-medicated feed. All feed companies are legally required to declare if a feed is medicated. The word MEDICATED will be noted on the label along with the type of medication, the purpose of the medication, and the inclusion of the medication. If nothing is written on the label to indicate that the feed is medicated, it is a non-medicated feed.

The great thing about Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer and another option, the Kalmbach 20% Flock Maker, is that these feeds contain LifeGuard® Poultry, an all-natural blend of ingredients that naturally supports gut health and immunity. These feeds are a great way to help protect and boost your birds’ immune systems without using medications. On a side note, most medications (amprolium) used in chick feeds are very safe. So, if your ducks have accidentally consumed medicated chick feed, it is unlikely to harm them.

Can I Add Turkeys or Gamebirds to My Mixed Flock?

Before we dive into nutrient needs, I encourage anyone who wants to have turkeys in a mixed flock to do your research on Blackhead Disease.

Turkeys and gamebirds have very high nutrient requirements when they are babies. Turkey poults require 40% more protein than chicks intended to become layers. They also need a lot of energy to support their rapid growth. Unless you are raising slow-growing heritage varieties, the gap between turkeys/gamebirds and chicks’ nutrient requirements is too wide for a good compromise. This is why starting turkeys and gamebirds on a feed specifically formulated for those species is probably best for those birds. You may have to feed turkeys and gamebirds separately from other poultry species for the first 3-6 weeks of life to give them the best start.

Nutrient Needs

Most of the differences mentioned in this article result from rapid growth that occurs in the first few weeks of a bird’s life. Each species grows differently and has different nutrient needs during those times. Do you remember how much your kids ate during a growth spurt? Poultry do the same thing! Chickens and ducks included. However, once those birds reach adulthood, most species actually have quite similar nutrient requirements. For example, an adult laying duck has nutrient requirements similar to a laying hen’s. This is why most adult laying ducks do very well on complete layer diets.

Adult non-producing poultry – turkeys, roosters, gamebirds, retired hens – are all in a nutrient state called maintenance. These birds still need good, balanced nutrition, but their bodies are no longer in rapid growth or production. Maintenance requirements are usually much lower than those of birds in the growth or production stage. A high-quality maintenance feed like Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer is the perfect option for mixed flocks. This feed still provides solid, quality nutrition to help your birds stay healthy, strong, and beautiful without excessive nutrient waste.

Keeping mixed flocks is fun! There is something so charming about seeing a nice blend of poultry out, pecking around, and enjoying a peaceful afternoon. We encourage all our poultry lovers to keep expanding their flocks, learning about different types of poultry, and having fun! We are here to help you on every step of your poultry journey!

Chicken Predators – What You Need to Know

Thursday, February 20th, 2025

ChickensChicken Predators – What You Need to Know: Humans aren’t the only animals that enjoy a delicious chicken dinner.

Foxes, coyotes, raccoons, dogs, mink, owls, and some hawks also find chickens a meaty, easy-to-catch meal.

It is frustrating to discover chickens killed by a mink or carried off by a fox. Fortunately, predators can be foiled.

Predators are everywhere. No flock is completely safe from some carnivorous species that would like to eat them.

Raccoons and domestic dogs probably kill more chickens than any other animals and live in both rural and urban areas. Raccoons are surprisingly abundant even in New York City!

Seeking revenge is often the first reaction a flock owner has when birds are killed.

Shotguns and traps are sometimes used but killing a chicken-eating fox or raccoon can be both illegal and dangerous. Preventing predation is far more effective than shooting or trapping an animal or two.

Most chicken losses occur at night when raccoons, skunks, opossums, owls, mink, and weasels are most likely to prowl.

The best defense against night shift chicken snatchers is a sturdy tight coop. Chickens come inside at dusk and are almost comatose when sleeping. Once they get inside predators can easily pluck a plump hen off the roost.

The solution is making entry nearly impossible. That’s easier said than done. A mink can ooze through a one-inch diameter hole while weasels can fit through even smaller cracks.

Some ways to keep predators out of the coop include:

  • At dusk and when you plan to be away until after dark, close and securely latch all doors, especially the pop hole door.
  • Cover all windows with sturdy wire mesh. Raccoons can tear through hexagonal chicken wire, so the stronger wire is essential. One half-inch square hardware cloth thwarts raccoons and even keeps mink out.
  • Fill in any holes or cracks in walls or around doors with concrete, caulking, wire, or expanding foam.
  • Watch for signs of animals digging tunnels under the coop walls. A concrete coop floor prevents this type of entry, but wire mesh placed on a dirt floor beneath litter and tacked to the coop’s sidewalls also works.
  • Eliminate predator hiding places near the coop. Piles of firewood, debris, old vacant sheds, and brush piles offer predators a safe haven as they approach. The fewer places they have to hide the less likely they are to invade.
  • Install a sensor-activated light that turns on as a hungry raccoon approaches.

Preventing daytime predators from snatching chickens is more challenging as the birds are often outside.

Dogs are probably the major daytime chicken killers, but several species of hawks may also prey on hens.

Mink, foxes, and weasels are occasionally active during daylight hours but raccoons, opossums, and skunks rarely are. Preparing the run in two ways will reduce predation.

First, confine the flock with a sturdy fence that keeps chickens in and dogs out. Usually, a stout four-foot-tall fence will prevent heavy chicken breeds from flying over it while excluding dogs and foxes. Light breed chickens are adept flyers and a six or eight-foot-tall fence may be needed to confine them.

Second, provide overhead protection. A sure-fire way to keep raptors from snatching an occasional chicken is to cover the run with wire mesh. Small outdoor runs can feature a roof that also keeps rain and snow off the ground.

Chickens, like rabbits and other prey species, recognize that danger can come from the sky. They are safer when the run provides some overhead cover.

A few shrubs planted in the run give chickens places to safely loiter beneath their intertwined branches. A picnic table placed in the run also gives birds a safe haven from the bright sun and overhead predators.

Predators are crafty and often catch chickens and their owners by surprise. Months can go by with no loss. Then in just a sort time, many birds can be killed. Preventing predators from accessing chickens is the best way to keep them safe.

In conclusion, Kissimmee Valley Feed cares about the safety and health of your chickens! See our poultry selection here.

Read more articles similar to this one and the original article at Nutrena, Scoop from the Coop.

Winterize Your Chicken Coop

Sunday, January 5th, 2025

winterize your chicken coopIt’s time to winterize your chicken coop. Winter is upon us and egg production tends to slow down in late fall due to the shorter days. Lighting is a huge component to this decrease as well as the temperature drop. A laying hen’s endocrine system is stimulated by light so the shorter days slow egg production or can stop it completely. Some flock owners look at winter as a dormant break for their laying hens.  Other owners like to keep the production throughout the winter months. In order to do this, hens need more than 14 hours of light during the day.

Lighting:

A nine-watt compact fluorescent bulb is all that’s needed for a typical backyard coop. Plug the light into a timer and have it come on early enough in the morning to give the birds 15 hours of daylight, and egg production will be improved through the shorter days of winter.The light needs to light up the largest area possible. Clean the lamps once a week to keep them clean to output as much light as possible.

Heat Lamps:

Start this process in late fall since the lighting changes at that time. Make sure to hang the lamp or bulb up in the coop where the chickens can’t snuggle up to the lamp and cinge their feathers. Make sure the light reaches the whole coop and offers heat throughout.

Other Tips on Winterizing:

Keep the coop dry and clean. The best way to do this is to keep make sure the coop will not have standing water if rain comes. Make sure to replace the bedding with dry bedding each week.

Bedding also provides insulation for the chickens. Cover large holes where drafts or critters can enter. Be careful not to cover up all the holes so proper ventilation can occur.

Freezing temperatures can freeze up the water source. Think about getting a heated water source or pour fresh water each day.

It’s important to gather eggs daily because those can freeze as well.

Throw down extra feed or corn before they head to roost at night. This will provide energy and keep them warm at night.

Your flock needs some time and attention during the winter months to keep up with egg production. The extra work is worth it! You’ll have a full carton of eggs all winter!

Visit Kissimmee Valley Feed and check out our poultry supplies online to get a happy and healthy flock!

 

The Molting Process

Tuesday, November 5th, 2024

The Molting ProcessAhh, the molting process. Shorter days and cooler temperatures…For people, it’s a sign that it is back to school time and fall. To chickens, it’s a sign that it is time to renew their feathers. Losing feathers and re-growing them is called molting and occurs every year when the days get shorter.

During molt, chickens typically stop laying eggs and use this time to build up their nutrient reserves. Even though they are not laying, it is critical that your chickens have a high quality diet during this time.

Feeding a high quality ration such as NatureWise Feather Fixer™ during molt will help your birds get through the molting process and back to laying eggs as quickly as possible. Feather Fixer™ is a unique and innovative life-stage product that can also be fed year round if desired. It has elevated levels of protein as well as a mix of vitamins, minerals and amino acids that help maintain healthy skin and develop strong and beautiful new feathers.

Top tips for feeding through the molt:

  • Feed a high protein feed like NatureWise Feather Fixer that is a complete feed, so you don’t have to worry about feeding other protein supplements to feed along with layer feed during molt.
  • Make feed available free choice
  • Limit scratch to 10% of diet during molt so you don’t dilute the protein content of the ration
  • Molting and growing new feathers requires a lot of energy. Feathers are 85% protein… so be sure your birds’ diet includes a highly nutritious feed like NatureWise or Country Feeds that consists of at least 16% protein, or ideally, the higher protein NatureWise Feather Fixer. You don’t need to add medications or other vitamins if you’re feeding one of these feeds.
  • Just as your chickens have individual personalities, they will go through molt differently as well. Some lose a few feathers and grow them back in as quickly as 3-4 weeks. Other chickens lose a lot of feathers and take 12-16 weeks to grow them back.

Other tips for helping chickens get through molting:

  • Reduce stress as much as possible, avoid bringing new birds into the flock if possible
  • Chickens should act normal during their molt – if they seem sick, something else is wrong
  • Both roosters and hens go through molt
  • Avoid handling your chickens during molt, it is painful for them and increases stress

Chickens will lose feathers in a sequence starting with the head and neck and then down the back, across the breast and thighs and finally their tail feathers. The new feathers that emerge are called pinfeathers and will grow in following the same sequence they were lost.

So don’t panic when your chickens start losing their feathers and stop laying eggs. Molting is a normal and natural process of shedding feathers and re-growing them that all chickens go through. The best thing you can do to help your chickens through molt is to feed a high quality, high protein layer feed.

In conclusion, visit Kissimmee Valley Feed for all things chicken!

Article source: Nutrena World

How to Switch to a Chicken Layer Feed

Wednesday, July 3rd, 2024

Switch to Chicken Layer FeedSwitch laying hens to a complete chicken layer feed when they start laying eggs around 18 weeks of age. Choose a complete layer feed that includes all the essential nutrients laying hens need to lay strong and stay strong. Then make the transition gradually over one week.

When you turn 18, you can do a lot of new things. You can vote, buy fireworks and even try your luck with the lottery. The magical number means welcome to adulthood.

For backyard chickens, the number 18 means the same thing. Eighteen weeks is the age when laying hens are considered adults. Most excitingly, it’s the time when many chicken breeds will start laying eggs. At this key milestone, switch your hens to a complete layer feed.

This feed switch is an essential step down the road to farm fresh eggs because hens require different nutrients to produce eggs as compared to when they are growing.

To produce an egg each day, hens need high levels of calcium, vitamins and minerals. Hens transfer many of these nutrients directly into their eggs, so the nutrients in layer feed play an essential role in egg production.

Consider the following steps when transitioning to a complete chicken layer feed:

1. Choose a chicken layer feed that matches your goals.

The best chicken feed for layers depends on your flock goals. Select a complete layer feed before the transition begins. Ideally, make your layer feed decision by week 16, so you’re ready to make the transition at week 18.

First, look for a complete layer feed. This means the feed should be formulated to provide all the nutrients laying hens require without a need to supplement. Choose a layer feed with the Purina® Oyster Strong® System to help your hens lay strong and stay strong.

Which layer feed Oyster Strong® System is right for your flock?

  • Purina® Layena® pellets or crumbles Our most popular layer feeds
  • Purina® Layena® Omega-3 Includes added omega-3 fatty acids for your health
  • Purina® Layena® High Protein Includes 19% protein and black fly soldier fly larvae
  • Purina® Organic Layer Feed Certified USDA Organic

Each of these chicken layer feeds is made with simple, wholesome ingredients, 16 percent protein, at least 3.25 percent calcium as well as key vitamins and minerals. They also include our exclusive Oyster Strong® System to ensure your laying hens achieve a balanced supply of calcium through a blend of oyster shell, vitamin D and manganese. These three ingredients work together to help your chickens produce strong-shelled, delicious eggs each day.

These are just the essentials, though. Additional ingredients in Purina® complete layer feeds help bring hen health and egg quality to the next level.

A few next-level ingredients to look for include:

  • For rich, yellow yolks: Marigold extract
  • For strong shells and healthy hens: Oyster Strong® System
  • For immune and digestive health: Prebiotics and probiotics
  • For vibrant feathering: Essential amino acids such as lysine and methionine
  • For omega-rich eggs: Added omega-3 fatty acids

2. Transition to chicken layer feed over one week.

When birds reach 18 weeks old or when the first egg arrives, gradually switch your laying hens to a complete layer feed. It’s important to make the transition over time to prevent digestive upset.

On our farm in Missouri, we’ve found it’s best to make chicken feed transitions over time rather than all at once. We mix the starter-grower feed and layer feed evenly for four or five days. If birds are used to crumbles, start with a crumble layer feed. The same goes with pellets. The more similar the two chicken feeds are, the more smoothly the transition will go.

Many hens will eat the mixed feed without noticing a difference. When laying hens are eating both feeds, you can stop feeding the starter-grower feed and make the complete switch to all layer feed. It is important to give your birds enough time to adjust to the new diet. Most birds will adjust within a couple days but some can take a couple weeks to fully transition to their new diet.

3. Keep chicken feed consistent.

Once the transition to layer feed is complete, it’s best to maintain a routine.

We recommend providing free choice layer feed to hens and switching out the feed each morning and evening. Laying hens eat approximately 0.25 pounds of complete feed each day, equaling about one-half cup.

If birds are free-ranging, offer complete layer feed before they go out in the morning. This will help them consume the essential nutrients before filling up on less nutritionally balanced insects and plants.

It’s important for the complete feed to make up at least 90 percent of the hen’s diet. We feed complete layer feeds on our farm because they are formulated to provide all the nutrients hens require at the correct levels. It’s reassuring to know that each bite of feed is balanced to keep our hens healthy and producing quality eggs.

Ready to start the transition? Visit our store today to pick up a bag that meets your flock’s needs.

From Purina. Patrick Briggs.

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