Archive for the ‘Chickens’ Category

Tips for Collecting Chicken Eggs

Sunday, August 18th, 2019

Tips for Collecting Chicken EggsWhether you’re new to maintaining a backyard flock or simply have a few questions about regularly collecting chicken eggs, these tips from Purina will help you get the most out of your flock’s egg production.

The decision to refrigerate eggs or leave them on the counter should be made based on if you’ve washed your farm fresh eggs or not. Unwashed eggs have a protective layer called a cuticle and can be stored on the counter. Washing eggs removes the cuticle; therefore, washed eggs should be refrigerated to prevent contamination. Read on for more egg storage tips and FAQs about farm fresh eggs!

There’s palpable excitement when it comes to your laying hens producing their first eggs. How many eggs will be in the coop? What will they look like?

But, as eggs are produced, new questions come to mind. How often do chickens lay eggs? Why are my chickens eating eggs? Is washing chicken eggs necessary? And, do eggs need to be refrigerated?

Get answers to these frequently asked questions (and more):

How often do chickens lay eggs?

If you’re wondering, “how often do chickens lay eggs?”, you’re not alone! It’s a common question when you’re new to egg production.

You can collect about one egg per hen per day when egg production is in full swing. And, from hen to hen, egg-laying schedules vary. Some hens lay in the morning while others lay later in the day.

Whether you are eating or hatching eggs, it is important to collect eggs regularly and store them properly. Gather eggs two to three times per day, at a minimum once in the morning and evening. Collect even more often during extremely warm or cold weather. The frequent collection helps keep eggs clean and reduces the chance for egg cracking due to hen traffic in the nests.

Always discard eggs with noticeable cracks because cracks can allow bacteria to enter the egg. Cracks can also result from an inadequate diet.

Safe eggs start with strong shells. To form strong egg shells and maintain bone strength, laying hens need 4 grams of calcium each day, all of which must come from their chicken feed. Maintain egg strength and hen health by feeding a complete layer feed like Purina® Layena®Purina® Layena® Plus Omega-3 or Purina® Organic layer pellets or crumbles. These feeds include the Oyster Strong® System, which provides all of the calcium laying hens need – no need to supplement.

Why are my chickens eating eggs?

Wondering how to stop chickens from eating eggs? Start by collecting chicken eggs on a regular schedule.

Egg eating generally occurs when a hen finds a broken egg, tastes it, likes it and begins searching for other broken eggs. Hens can even learn to break them intentionally. Collecting chicken eggs frequently can help prevent hens from eating their eggs.

If you notice your chickens eating eggs, first find the culprit. Look for remnants of the egg yolk on the skin and feathers around a hen’s head and beak. Consider separating the culprit hen from the flock to avoid other hens picking up the learned habit.

Here are more tips for how to help stop chickens from eating eggs:

Is washing chicken eggs necessary? Do eggs need to be refrigerated?

There are valid points for both washing and not washing chicken eggs, so it comes down to personal preference. But, you’ll have to store the eggs differently depending on which one you pick.

Unwashed eggs have a protective layer called a cuticle and can be stored on the counter. This protective coating helps keep bacteria out. Washing eggs removes the cuticle. As a result, washed eggs must be refrigerated to prevent contamination.

If you choose to go with washing chicken eggs, follow these guidelines:

  • Be gentle and quick, using water only. Water should be warmer than the egg.
  • Brush any foreign material off the shell with your finger or a soft brush.
  • Remove any signs of manure from the shell, since feces can harbor bacteria which can get into the egg.
  • Dry and cool eggs as quickly as possible and then refrigerate between 32- and 40-degrees Fahrenheit.

Refrigerated farm fresh eggs can last up to 45 to 60 days when kept at the proper temperature.

If I’m hatching eggs, how should I store them before incubating?

If you’re collecting chicken eggs and storing for incubation later, wash any foreign material off the shell and refrigerate at 55 degrees Fahrenheit with 70-75% humidity. Store eggs with the narrow end pointing down for a maximum of one week prior to incubation. The older a fertilized egg is, the less likely it is to hatch. Store eggs at an angle and change the angle once a day. This will keep the yolk from sticking to the side of the egg and help the developing embryo stay safe before hatching.

Let the eggs warm to room temperature when you’re ready to incubate. Then, give the eggs to a broody hen or place in an incubator. After eggs have been stored and incubated, 70% hatchability is considered very good.

Want strong shells? Sign up for the Feed Greatness® Challenge and get a $5 off coupon for Purina® layer feeds*.

*The Feed Greatness® Challenge is a 90-day feeding trial where you will feed Purina® feed, monitor your flock’s performance and health, take pictures and receive emails with helpful information.

Source: Purina

 

 

Purina Farm to Flock Treats

Friday, June 14th, 2019

Farm to Flock TreatsPurina Farm to Flock Treats are deliciously made and served up in a fun bite-sized shape that your birds will love! Treats like scratch grains, mealworms, and kitchen scraps are like candy for birds; fun to eat and a nice treat, but you wouldn’t want to make a meal of them. This product offers essential nutrients your birds need so you can go ahead and spoil them without any guilt. Your girls will get a well-balanced mix of grains, vitamins, and minerals in every delightful bite. These treats also pair well with our Purina Flock Block and other similar products. You can’t go wrong by scattering this throughout your daily feeding regiment.

The maker is operated by an American farmer-owned company who shares your values. Your flock’s nutrition is our top priority. The hens at our farm love Purina Farm to Flock Treats, so we trust yours will too. Feeding directions are easy, just mix 2 tablespoons per day along with a complete and balanced Purina poultry diet!

We are happy to announce that we offer this product at Kissimmee Valley Feed! For more information on this product, visit here. We would love to know how your flock reacts to this product. Next time you’re in the store, share with us!

6 Week Old Chicks

Wednesday, February 20th, 2019
6 Week Old ChicksBetween 6 and 8 weeks of age, your chicks will be much larger and will need twice the amount of floor space they started with. 

It’s also time to start thinking about moving your chicks from the brooder to more permanent living quarters outside. If the temperature is mild and the chicks are fully feathered, they can be allowed outside during the day. If you purchased straight-run chicks (50/50 males and females) you may be able to distinguish the males from the females around 5 to 7 weeks of age. The combs and wattles of the males usually develop earlier and are usually (but not always) larger than in the females. Females are typically smaller in size than males. If you are still uncertain of their sex by appearance, you’ll be sure who the males in the flock are when you hear them attempting to crow.

 

Things to do with your chickens at this stage

Your chicks are able to regulate their body temperature by this time and should not need a heat source any longer unless the outside temperatures are still very cold. Keep temperature at 65°F if this is the case.

Prepare your chicken house or coop. Housing should provide approximately three to four square feet of space per mature bird and should contain sufficient feeders and waterers to accommodate your flock size so that all birds can eat and drink at the same time. Two to three inches of litter should be put down to minimize dampness and odor. A nest box for every four hens should be made available for laying pullets. Roosts can be considered for laying pullets but not recommended for meat birds because of the potential for developing breast blisters.

If possible, prepare an area outside the coop for your birds. Outside runs or fenced in areas will allow chickens to scratch and peck to their hearts desire, returning to the roost at dusk to sleep. The house needs to have a secure latch that is fastened each night if they are allowed outside during the day. An outside run attached to the coop with screening on the top and sides for protection will allow chickens unlimited access to the yard and save you time and worry.

Tips to grow on

Once you move your birds to their permanent residence, make sure they are protected from predators, especially at night. Even a latched door may not be secure enough to keep raccoons out.

  • Your birds are still growing so keep feeding Purina® Start & Grow® Recipe to help them reach their maximum potential. Chicks should remain on this feed until at least 18 weeks of age.
  • If your flock is a mix of chicks, ducks and geese, continue feeding Purina® Flock Raiser Recipe.
  • Turkeys can start on Purina® Flock Raiser® at 8-10 weeks of age. Keep feeding this until market weight or laying age.
  •  If chicks were purchased for meat production, the normal weight for processing is 3 to 4 pounds for broilers and 6 to 8 pounds for roasters.
Looking ahead for layers

Laying pullets will need to receive a constant amount of light exposure once they reach 16 weeks of age to promote good egg production. For optimum egg production, a maximum of 17-18 hours of light (natural and/or artificial) per day is recommended. Gradually transition to Purina® Layena® Premium Poultry Feed or Purina®Organic Layer Feed at 18-20 weeks to support egg production.

Pullets will usually begin laying between 18 and 22 weeks of age. Increasing day length in the spring stimulates normal egg production, and egg production is naturally decreased in the fall when the days get shorter. Artificial light can be used in addition to natural daylight in the fall and winter months to maintain egg production all year long. If artificial light is not used, hens will stop laying when daylight hours decrease. It is very important that the supplemental light be consistent, as even one day without supplemental lighting can cause a decrease in egg production.

After 10-14 months of egg production, hens will molt and stop laying eggs. During molting, old feathers are lost and replaced by new feathers. It usually lasts between eight and twelve weeks (though it can be shorter or longer, depending on the individual hen and her environment) and it gives the hen’s reproductive system some much needed rest. Hens will return to production after the molt. Eggs laid in the next cycle are usually larger with improved shell quality but production typically drops about 10 percent.

Article Attributed to Purina Animal Nutrition

4-5 Week Old Chicks

Monday, February 4th, 2019
Your babies are growing up! 

By weeks four and five, you begin noticing that your chicks’ fluffy appearance slowly disappears and their fuzzy down is replaced with feathers of a mature bird. Chicks will usually be fully feathered by 5 to 6 weeks of age. You also observe their wattles and combs growing larger and taking on a deeper red color.

As they mature, chicks naturally establish a “pecking order” which determines each chick’s social position in the flock. Their place in the order will determine who eats and drinks first and ultimately who “rules the roost”. Although establishment of a pecking order is normal behavior, you should be watchful for excessive pecking in chicks as it may indicate a more serious problem, cannibalism. This is when birds peck the feathers and other body parts of other birds and if allowed to get out of hand, can lead to bleeding, open sores and even death.

Cannibalism can occur at any age and needs to be controlled as soon as it rears its ugly head. It is costly and can spread through a flock rapidly if left unchecked. Cannibalism is usually the result of stress, which can be caused by poor management. Some of these stressors may include crowding, excessive heat, bright lighting, noise, hunger, thirst, the presence of sick or injured chicks, parasites, or other stress factors. Providing the correct living environment in terms of these factors will help reduce the potential for cannibalism from occurring in your flock.

Things to do for your chicks this week
Your chicks require less heat as time goes by and they grow larger and more able to regulate their body temperature. Continue reducing the temperature each week to keep them comfortable to a minimum of 65°F. Continue to provide clean, fresh water each day. In addition, provide unlimited complete starter feed.
– Layer chicks, provide Purina® Start & Grow®.
– Meat birds, ducks and geese, provide Purina® Flock Raiser®.
– Organic chicks, provide Purina® Organic Starter-Grower.
– Turkey poults, provide Purina® Gamebird and Turkey Startena until week 8.

As your chicks grow, adjust the height of the feeders and waterers. A good rule of thumb is to keep them adjusted to the birds’ back height while standing. This will help to keep litter out of feeders and waterers, as well as curious chicks. Around 4 weeks of age, ducklings and goslings will thoroughly enjoy the addition of a swimming area. Be sure if you provide this to keep any resulting wet litter cleaned up. Because of their water-loving, messy nature, it is best to separate ducklings and goslings from chicks.

Tips to grow on
Maintain good sanitation practices to reduce the chance of disease. Bigger chicks make bigger messes, so be sure to keep up. As the chicks grow, make sure they have sufficient space to prevent crowding. Additional feeders and waterers may need to be added now to allow adequate space for all chicks to eat and drink at the same time. Keep a close eye on your chicks for signs of possible health issues. Chicks that are sick may appear droopy or listless, have diarrhea or be unwilling to eat.

Looking ahead
Your chicks will soon be mature enough to leave the brooder and move into more permanent living quarters, the chicken coop. If you don’t have one ready, now is a good time to start looking into getting one and preparing it for new occupants. You’ll be surprised at how fast your chicks will grow and how quickly moving day will arrive. Many types of poultry housing are available for purchase or you can venture to build your own. Whatever you decide, make sure that the house you choose is ventilated, predator proof and provides protection from extreme temperatures, wind and rain.
Article and Video Attributed to Purina Animal Nutrition

2-3 Week Old Chicks

Sunday, January 20th, 2019

2-3 Week Old Chicks

With a clean brooder, fresh feed and clean water, your chicks are settled in and off to a good start by weeks two and three. 

It’s time to enjoy them. Chicks are very social and will provide hours of entertainment. You will see their unique personalities emerge as each day goes by and they will grow into mature chickens before you know it.

Now, listen to them.  Chicks will emit a soft cheeping sound when everything is right in their world. This sound can be used as a means of determining their comfort status. A chick that is stressed due to conditions being too hot or cold, wet litter, or one that is hungry or thirsty will have a shrill or higher pitched cheep or may cheep very rapidly. Translate this as a call for help and look for the problem.

Things to do for your chicks this week
  • The brooder temperature should be reduced to 85°F (lower 5° each week to a minimum of 65°F).
  • Chicks should be exposed to at least 10 hours of light per day after the first week.
  • Brooder guard can be removed now if it hasn’t been already. Chicks should be able to find the heat source by this time.
  • After the brooder guard is taken out, the feeders and waterers can be moved further away from the source of heat. As the chicks become more active and continue to grow, this will give them more space for exercise and will help keep the feeders and waterers cleaner and keep them from being heated by the heat lamp.
  • Any paper or pans used to feed should be taken out if you are sure chicks are eating from the feeders. The level of feed in the feeders can be decreased a little each week until they are half full at all times. This will help reduce the amount of feed waste.
Tips to grow on
  • Keep checking on chicks to make sure they are comfortable. Again, chick behavior is the best measure of the ideal brooder temperature.
  • Continue to provide unlimited feed and water at all times.
  • Clean and refill waterers daily.
  • Remember, good sanitation is critical to avoid health problems when caring for young chicks. Keep litter dry by removing wet and soiled litter and replacing it with clean, dry litter.
  • Always store feed in a well-ventilated, dry area that is insect and rodent free.
Looking ahead

A complete and balanced feed will provide all the nutrition your chicks need to grow into healthy, productive birds. Feeding extra grains or scraps to your chicks can reduce the amount of complete feed they eat and may prevent them from getting all the nutrients they need to grow and develop properly.

One of the most common and deadly diseases in chicks is coccidiosis. Caused by a parasite, it is spread through the droppings of infected birds. Coccidia love damp, warm environments so wet litter and unsanitary brooder conditions are a prime breeding ground for this parasite. Most birds will come into contact with coccidia at some time but appear to be most susceptible to the disease between 3 to 5 weeks of age. If chicks are healthy and live in a dry, clean, well-managed environment, they are often able to fight it off or may only get a mild case, which can even go undetected. Symptoms of coccidiosis can include diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, weight loss, no desire to eat, ruffled feathers and an overall sickly appearance. If you suspect coccidiosis, seek treatment immediately. Commercial vaccines and medicated feeds are available to prevent coccidiosis. However, the ideal prevention for this disease is maintaining a dry, sanitary, stress free environment through good management.

If you suspect disease or some other serious health problem in your flock, contact your veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment options.

Article Attributed to Purina Animal Nutrition

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