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Mixed Flock Guide: Can Chickens and Ducks Live Together?

Thursday, February 20th, 2025

Chickens and DucksMixed Flock Guide: Can Chickens and Ducks Live Together? Have you ever been tempted at the farm store, looking for chicks, only to see adorable ducklings and wonder, “Can I raise chickens and ducks together?” The answer is a resounding YES! Ducks and chickens can coexist harmoniously, if their basic needs are met with the right feed, water, and conditions. Let’s discuss how to make this happen and what you need to know for a successful mixed flock.

How Is It Different When Raising Chickens and Ducks Together?

Raising chickens and ducks together is a rewarding experience, but there are a few key differences to be aware of. One of the main differences is their growth rate. Ducks grow much faster than chicks, so you need a larger brooder to accommodate their size as they develop. Ducks also require more niacin, a nutrient essential for their rapid growth, which means you’ll need to ensure your feed contains enough niacin to support both species.

Another difference is their water habits. Ducks love water and will make a mess of their brooder by splashing and spilling, so you’ll need to clean and refresh their water more frequently to keep their living space dry and hygienic. Additionally, ducks are more likely to nest and lay eggs on the ground, while chickens prefer elevated nesting boxes.
Despite these differences, the basic needs for brooding–temperature, feed, and water–are similar enough that chickens and ducks can be raised together successfully from the start. Understanding and adjusting to their specific needs will help your mixed flock thrive.

What To Expect When Raising Baby Ducks and Chicks Together

Ducks and chickens can be kept in the same brooder and chicken coop. As mentioned above, expect your ducks to grow faster than your chicks. This is okay. They can still be kept together, but your ducks may be ready to move to the coop sooner than the chicks. The difference in growth may also require a larger brooder with more temperature zones–larger ducks can move to the cooler zones while smaller chicks can still get to the warmer zones. You will also need to be diligent in cleaning and refreshing the water in your brooder. Ducks LOVE water, and they spill and make a mess any chance they get!

What To Expect When Raising Adult Ducks and Chickens Together

Once the ducks and chickens are adults, they can absolutely be kept in the same coop, if that is what you want. Ducks and chickens can all free-range during the day and return to the same coop at night. Generally, ducks will stay together as one flock when exploring, while chickens are much more independent. They may venture out in small groups, but they usually explore individually. Your ducks will also nest and lay on the floor of your coop. Don’t be surprised if that also influences some of your hens to lie on the ground! It’s common to find brown or green chicken eggs in the same nest as white duck eggs. If you’re raising birds for egg production, provide a single high-quality complete layer feed for everyone. That makes feeding easy and keeps the egg quality great.

Feeding Chicken and Ducks Together

Baby ducks grow extremely fast and require 60 more kilocalories in each pound of feed than slower-growing baby chicks. Baby ducks do not convert their nutrients to niacin well, so they require extra niacin during rapid growth. With all these differences, how can a poultry owner balance the nutrient needs of their mixed flock while still keeping their feed manageable?
The magic lies within a really great flock feed. When we formulate mixed flock feeds, we focus on the essential nutrients for each poultry species we want to feed. Then, we balance those nutrients against the needs of the other birds. There is definitely some compromise, but in the end, we have a well-balanced feed that will work for many scenarios and different poultry types.

Chicken and duck mixed flocks are probably the most popular in many of our backyard flocks. As discussed in previous articles and above, baby ducks grow faster than baby chicks. They also have some unique nutritional requirements. Niacin is a B vitamin (B3), and most B vitamins are used to help convert food into energy.

Ducklings usually require about 20-60% more niacin than baby chicks, and that is because ducks grow extremely fast, and they are not very good at converting their other nutrients to niacin. Ducks deficient in niacin may develop leg deformities that can affect how they walk. Because of these unique requirements, you want to choose a high-quality flock feed that specifically mentions ducks as one of the species in the purpose statement or the feeding directions. This ensures that the unique nutrient requirements of ducks were considered when the feed was formulated. You can choose to feed Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer, which has a broader nutrient profile for all types of poultry. Or, if your ducks are layers, you can choose from any of our complete layer feed options.

Medicated Precautions

It is important to note that medicated chick feeds are NOT labeled for ducks. If you choose to raise baby ducks and baby chicks together, you should select a non-medicated feed. All feed companies are legally required to declare if a feed is medicated. The word MEDICATED will be noted on the label along with the type of medication, the purpose of the medication, and the inclusion of the medication. If nothing is written on the label to indicate that the feed is medicated, it is a non-medicated feed.

The great thing about Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer and another option, the Kalmbach 20% Flock Maker, is that these feeds contain LifeGuard® Poultry, an all-natural blend of ingredients that naturally supports gut health and immunity. These feeds are a great way to help protect and boost your birds’ immune systems without using medications. On a side note, most medications (amprolium) used in chick feeds are very safe. So, if your ducks have accidentally consumed medicated chick feed, it is unlikely to harm them.

Can I Add Turkeys or Gamebirds to My Mixed Flock?

Before we dive into nutrient needs, I encourage anyone who wants to have turkeys in a mixed flock to do your research on Blackhead Disease.

Turkeys and gamebirds have very high nutrient requirements when they are babies. Turkey poults require 40% more protein than chicks intended to become layers. They also need a lot of energy to support their rapid growth. Unless you are raising slow-growing heritage varieties, the gap between turkeys/gamebirds and chicks’ nutrient requirements is too wide for a good compromise. This is why starting turkeys and gamebirds on a feed specifically formulated for those species is probably best for those birds. You may have to feed turkeys and gamebirds separately from other poultry species for the first 3-6 weeks of life to give them the best start.

Nutrient Needs

Most of the differences mentioned in this article result from rapid growth that occurs in the first few weeks of a bird’s life. Each species grows differently and has different nutrient needs during those times. Do you remember how much your kids ate during a growth spurt? Poultry do the same thing! Chickens and ducks included. However, once those birds reach adulthood, most species actually have quite similar nutrient requirements. For example, an adult laying duck has nutrient requirements similar to a laying hen’s. This is why most adult laying ducks do very well on complete layer diets.

Adult non-producing poultry – turkeys, roosters, gamebirds, retired hens – are all in a nutrient state called maintenance. These birds still need good, balanced nutrition, but their bodies are no longer in rapid growth or production. Maintenance requirements are usually much lower than those of birds in the growth or production stage. A high-quality maintenance feed like Kalmbach 16% Flock Maintainer is the perfect option for mixed flocks. This feed still provides solid, quality nutrition to help your birds stay healthy, strong, and beautiful without excessive nutrient waste.

Keeping mixed flocks is fun! There is something so charming about seeing a nice blend of poultry out, pecking around, and enjoying a peaceful afternoon. We encourage all our poultry lovers to keep expanding their flocks, learning about different types of poultry, and having fun! We are here to help you on every step of your poultry journey!

Chicken Predators – What You Need to Know

Thursday, February 20th, 2025

ChickensChicken Predators – What You Need to Know: Humans aren’t the only animals that enjoy a delicious chicken dinner.

Foxes, coyotes, raccoons, dogs, mink, owls, and some hawks also find chickens a meaty, easy-to-catch meal.

It is frustrating to discover chickens killed by a mink or carried off by a fox. Fortunately, predators can be foiled.

Predators are everywhere. No flock is completely safe from some carnivorous species that would like to eat them.

Raccoons and domestic dogs probably kill more chickens than any other animals and live in both rural and urban areas. Raccoons are surprisingly abundant even in New York City!

Seeking revenge is often the first reaction a flock owner has when birds are killed.

Shotguns and traps are sometimes used but killing a chicken-eating fox or raccoon can be both illegal and dangerous. Preventing predation is far more effective than shooting or trapping an animal or two.

Most chicken losses occur at night when raccoons, skunks, opossums, owls, mink, and weasels are most likely to prowl.

The best defense against night shift chicken snatchers is a sturdy tight coop. Chickens come inside at dusk and are almost comatose when sleeping. Once they get inside predators can easily pluck a plump hen off the roost.

The solution is making entry nearly impossible. That’s easier said than done. A mink can ooze through a one-inch diameter hole while weasels can fit through even smaller cracks.

Some ways to keep predators out of the coop include:

  • At dusk and when you plan to be away until after dark, close and securely latch all doors, especially the pop hole door.
  • Cover all windows with sturdy wire mesh. Raccoons can tear through hexagonal chicken wire, so the stronger wire is essential. One half-inch square hardware cloth thwarts raccoons and even keeps mink out.
  • Fill in any holes or cracks in walls or around doors with concrete, caulking, wire, or expanding foam.
  • Watch for signs of animals digging tunnels under the coop walls. A concrete coop floor prevents this type of entry, but wire mesh placed on a dirt floor beneath litter and tacked to the coop’s sidewalls also works.
  • Eliminate predator hiding places near the coop. Piles of firewood, debris, old vacant sheds, and brush piles offer predators a safe haven as they approach. The fewer places they have to hide the less likely they are to invade.
  • Install a sensor-activated light that turns on as a hungry raccoon approaches.

Preventing daytime predators from snatching chickens is more challenging as the birds are often outside.

Dogs are probably the major daytime chicken killers, but several species of hawks may also prey on hens.

Mink, foxes, and weasels are occasionally active during daylight hours but raccoons, opossums, and skunks rarely are. Preparing the run in two ways will reduce predation.

First, confine the flock with a sturdy fence that keeps chickens in and dogs out. Usually, a stout four-foot-tall fence will prevent heavy chicken breeds from flying over it while excluding dogs and foxes. Light breed chickens are adept flyers and a six or eight-foot-tall fence may be needed to confine them.

Second, provide overhead protection. A sure-fire way to keep raptors from snatching an occasional chicken is to cover the run with wire mesh. Small outdoor runs can feature a roof that also keeps rain and snow off the ground.

Chickens, like rabbits and other prey species, recognize that danger can come from the sky. They are safer when the run provides some overhead cover.

A few shrubs planted in the run give chickens places to safely loiter beneath their intertwined branches. A picnic table placed in the run also gives birds a safe haven from the bright sun and overhead predators.

Predators are crafty and often catch chickens and their owners by surprise. Months can go by with no loss. Then in just a sort time, many birds can be killed. Preventing predators from accessing chickens is the best way to keep them safe.

In conclusion, Kissimmee Valley Feed cares about the safety and health of your chickens! See our poultry selection here.

Read more articles similar to this one and the original article at Nutrena, Scoop from the Coop.

How to Keep Grass Green in Winter

Monday, January 20th, 2025

Green Grass in WinterWith a little preparation and winter grass seed, you can keep your grass green in winter. When you live in hot southern and southwestern climates, fall and winter temperatures bring welcome relief from summer heat. But cooler temps can put a damper on plans for outdoor fun when your lush lawn turns brown. But don’t cancel your plans to show off your yard — take steps to keep it green instead.

WHY SOME LAWNS TURN BROWN IN WINTER:

Lawn grasses go through predictable seasonal changes. Grasses like Bermudagrass, common in southern and southwestern lawns, are called warm-season grasses because they hit peak growth when temperatures are high. But the same grass in winter slows down and turns brown when temperatures drop. Even though your lawn looks dead, it’s not. Your winter grass has gone dormant until warm temperatures return.

In northern lawns, homeowners have the opposite situation. Their cool-season grasses peak in cool weather and sometimes go dormant in summer heat. In winter, they stay relatively green — even when blanketed with snow. Those cool-season ways hold the secret to keeping your southern or southwestern lawn green with winter grass seed.

WHY RYEGRASS IS BEST FOR KEEPING WINTER LAWNS GREEN:

Like trees, shrubs and other plants, lawn grasses differ in how fast they grow. Annual and perennial ryegrasses are the fastest germinating grasses among all common cool-season lawn grasses. That’s why they’re used for erosion control and quick green color while new lawns take hold. As a grass that grows in winter, ryegrass flourishes at temperatures that turn Bermudagrass brown.

To keep warm-season winter lawns looking green, lawn care pros (and savvy homeowners) do what’s called “overseeding” for temporary winter color. Overseeding is just like it sounds: You plant winter grass seed over your existing lawn. It’s similar to overseeding to make thin lawns thick again.

The cool-season ryegrass keeps winter lawns green. When warm temperatures return, ryegrass dies out and lets your lush Bermudagrass take center stage.

HOW AND WHEN TO PREPARE YOUR LAWN FOR WINTER GRASS SEED:

When green winter grass is your goal, overseed your lawn in fall when your existing warm-season grass starts to lose its green color. Most southern lawn owners log this on their warm-season lawn care calendar for early to mid-September. Wait until your nighttime temperatures consistently stay below 65 degrees Fahrenheit — prime time for ryegrass to take off. Avoid all weed killers for at least three weeks before overseeding.

Set your mower blade as low as it goes, then mow to “scalp” your lawn and cut grass right above the soil level. You want the soil exposed and ready for winter grass seed. Use a bag to collect all your clippings. Then use a metal rake and gently loosen soil so it’s ready to receive seed.

HOW AND WHEN TO SEED YOUR LAWN WITH WINTER GRASS SEED:

Once your lawn is prepped, you’re ready to plant your winter grass seed. Always choose a premium ryegrass seed such as Pennington Smart Seed Perennial Ryegrass or Pennington Annual Ryegrass Grass Seed. By buying the best grass seed for your lawn, you can make sure you get the quick green color and lush winter lawn you desire.

Use a regular lawn spreader to apply the seed evenly at the overseeding rate listed on the seed label. With Pennington Fairway Supreme Perennial Ryegrass Blend with Fertilizer, you get premium ryegrass enhanced with fertilizer, designed especially with overseeding warm-season Bermudagrass lawns in mind.

Once you’re through seeding, gently rake again. This helps ensure your winter grass seed makes good contact with your soil.

HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR GREEN WINTER GRASS:

Watering is the most important step in keeping your winter grass green. Give your newly seeded lawn light, daily waterings — twice a day if needed — so soil stays consistently moist. Continue until ryegrass sprouts and grows about 2 inches tall. Under proper conditions, ryegrass typically germinates in seven to 10 days. Once established, lawn grasses need about 1 inch of water per week from irrigation or rainfall combined.

Start to mow once your green winter grass reaches 3 inches tall. That’s one-third higher than its recommended mowing height. While that’s taller than Bermudagrass, the extra height helps ryegrass look its best. Always use best practices for how to mow your lawn and follow a regular lawn maintenance schedule. Avoid all weed control products until you mow your green winter grass three to four times.

When cool temperatures make your lawn brown, turn it green again with these simple steps for rich, green grass from winter grass seed. At Pennington, we’re dedicated to helping you grow a beautiful lush green lawn — wherever you live. We’re here to help you grow and succeed.

Check out Kissimmee Valley Feed’s Lawn and Garden product selection to help keep your yard in tip-top shape in every season.

Article Source: Pennington

Vaccinate Your Cattle This January

Wednesday, January 15th, 2025

Vaccinate Your Cattle This January: As we start a new year, it’s important for cattle farmers to start thinking about vaccinating their herds. Vaccinating your cattle is one of the most important things you can do to protect their health, and ultimately, your livelihood. Let’s explore why January is a good time to start thinking about vaccinating your cattle, what vaccines are available, and how to determine which vaccines are right for your herd.

The winter months may seem like an odd time to think about vaccinating, but it’s actually the perfect time to start. Many diseases, such as bovine respiratory disease (BRD), can have a significant impact on cattle health and productivity. By vaccinating your herd in January, you’ll help protect them from these diseases before they become a problem in the spring and summer months.

Which Vaccine to Choose?

But which vaccines should you choose? This may seem overwhelming, but your local feed store can help. They can provide you with information on which vaccines are recommended for your area and what may be necessary for your particular herd. For example, a cow-calf operation will have different vaccine needs than a feedlot.

One vaccine that is highly recommended for all cattle is the clostridial vaccine. This vaccine protects against a range of diseases caused by the Clostridium bacteria, including blackleg, tetanus, and red water. Another vaccine to consider is one that protects against respiratory diseases, which can be particularly common in winter months. Bovine viral diarrhea (BVD) is another disease that can have serious financial implications. Vaccinating against BVD can help prevent its spread and reduce the risk of future outbreaks in your herd.

Correct Administration:

It’s not just about choosing the right vaccine, but also administering it correctly and at the right time. Make sure you’re following the manufacturer’s recommendations for dosage and timing. Some vaccines require booster shots to provide adequate protection. It’s essential to get your timing and dosage correct to prevent complications and increase the effectiveness of the vaccine. Don’t forget to keep accurate records of vaccinations given, so that you can keep track of when boosters are due, and which cattle may need vaccines again in the future.

Vaccinate Your Cattle This January: Vaccinating your cattle is an essential part of herd management, and January is a perfect time to start planning. By working with your local feed store and understanding the needs of your herd, you can choose the right vaccines to protect your cattle against potential threats and ensure their long-term health and productivity. As with all aspects of herd management, it’s important to stay up-to-date and informed, so don’t forget to research and stay on top of vaccination recommendations. Stay ahead of the curve and protect your herd by vaccinating your cattle this January!

Winterize Your Chicken Coop

Sunday, January 5th, 2025

winterize your chicken coopIt’s time to winterize your chicken coop. Winter is upon us and egg production tends to slow down in late fall due to the shorter days. Lighting is a huge component to this decrease as well as the temperature drop. A laying hen’s endocrine system is stimulated by light so the shorter days slow egg production or can stop it completely. Some flock owners look at winter as a dormant break for their laying hens.  Other owners like to keep the production throughout the winter months. In order to do this, hens need more than 14 hours of light during the day.

Lighting:

A nine-watt compact fluorescent bulb is all that’s needed for a typical backyard coop. Plug the light into a timer and have it come on early enough in the morning to give the birds 15 hours of daylight, and egg production will be improved through the shorter days of winter.The light needs to light up the largest area possible. Clean the lamps once a week to keep them clean to output as much light as possible.

Heat Lamps:

Start this process in late fall since the lighting changes at that time. Make sure to hang the lamp or bulb up in the coop where the chickens can’t snuggle up to the lamp and cinge their feathers. Make sure the light reaches the whole coop and offers heat throughout.

Other Tips on Winterizing:

Keep the coop dry and clean. The best way to do this is to keep make sure the coop will not have standing water if rain comes. Make sure to replace the bedding with dry bedding each week.

Bedding also provides insulation for the chickens. Cover large holes where drafts or critters can enter. Be careful not to cover up all the holes so proper ventilation can occur.

Freezing temperatures can freeze up the water source. Think about getting a heated water source or pour fresh water each day.

It’s important to gather eggs daily because those can freeze as well.

Throw down extra feed or corn before they head to roost at night. This will provide energy and keep them warm at night.

Your flock needs some time and attention during the winter months to keep up with egg production. The extra work is worth it! You’ll have a full carton of eggs all winter!

Visit Kissimmee Valley Feed and check out our poultry supplies online to get a happy and healthy flock!

 

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